OUTBACK BOLIVIA

We dropped “down” into the isolated desert town Uyuni, Bolivia (3669m/ 12,034ft) from the mountains above. We arrived in town simultaneously with a huge sandy salt storm resembling a middle eastern haboob. Mini cyclones of sandy trash flew around us as we searched for our hotel in this outpost. Wow, we drove eight hours to reach Uyuni for the sole purpose of continuing our southwest circuit tour in the Salar de Uyuni. As far as we could tell, that would be the only reason to do so. Thankfully it began to rain calming the out of control sandblasting of Amelia and us.  It would seem that inhabitants must spend half of their days endlessly sweeping and sweeping the ever present dust and salt. The piles of garbage they tirelessly swept into the middle of the streets (for collection perhaps?) looked purposeful only to be disheveled by street dogs and blown around haphazardly in the next wind.

For the next several days we would explore this otherworldly, bleak, solitary, exceedingly harsh, yet strikingly beautiful environment lying just outside the Uyuni town limits independently in our Chevy Suburban. Was that wise? There would be few signs, endless forks in the roads (or paths), extremely rough 4WD mountain passes, high altitude and no gasoline available. Most tourists take tours in 4WD Toyotas with suspensions capable if maneuvering the washboard and sand roads. Could we make it to the Chile boarder in four or five days without breaking down in the middle of nowhere without help in sight? I was skeptical but Jay was confident- until our bones and Amelia’s joints and springs rattled so hard at 9 miles per hour on the washboards we thought she would just give up and say, ENOUGH! Amelia is a tough old gal but she is old for an overland vehicle at 18 years with 188,000 miles on her. Hmmm, would we need to rethink this and exit the Bolivia Altiplano into Chile on the nearest possible road? If so we would miss highly sought sites which would most likely be our best memory of Bolivia if not our entire travel careers. By chance we met an extremely knowledgeable guide escorting a French group who generously educated us about the most favorable path ahead for us. With his advice we moved on to extraordinary sights and unknown challenges in the morning.

dsc03914
The “roads” across the salt flats are not exactly clear cut.

20161030_102106

dsc03906

dsc03921

dsc03907

dsc03928
Amelia stands proud with the pros!
dsc03930
An island of cactus in the middle of the salt flat.

20161030_115519

20161030_163710
A salt hotel with salt walls and furniture made of salt.

We were blown away by what we saw! It was stunning for us because it was so different. It felt like we were on another planet. From the expanse of the Salar with floating, cactus covered islands in the distance to the multi colored lakes (over 4276 m/ 14,025ft)with flamingos in flight back dropped by multi colored treeless mountains- it was spectacular. We can forget about our notion of flamingos basking on a balmy beach somewhere, these breeds hardily thrive in freezing and wind swept lands at altitudes many humans cannot tolerate. Continuing with the strangeness of it all, we needed to climb to 5033m/ 16,508 ft with the truck to cancel our vehicle import permit for Bolivia! This was a couple of hours from the border where we would exit into Chile and have our passports stamped. Has anyone gone to process government paper work at 16,508ft!? This leg of our trip was really tough on Amelia and us but it was well worth the enormous effort. Well done Amelia!

dsc03957
Out of the salt flats and on to the rest of the circuit.
dsc03940
Roughly: “Be careful delinquents. This is an area of vigilante community justice. Suspicious persons and derelict cars will be punished by the community.” We decided not to have breakfast in this town.
dsc03967
Another “hill of the cross.”
dsc03969
Cold mornings

dsc03972

dsc03976

dsc03983
Oh the colors.
dsc03986
Llareta
dsc03995
Another salt flat.

dsc03997

dsc03998
The white here is borax which is heavily mined in the region.
dsc04002
Paja Brava
dsc04011
Stopping to talk with some intrepid cyclists from Argentina and France.
dsc04015
Laguna Colorado the red lake (4276 m/ 14,025ft)
dsc04024
Galloping Vicuna (wild Alpacas.)
dsc04038
Flamingos on a red lake. (Flamenco de James)

 

dsc04040

dsc04044
Dust so thick it’s hard to see out of the windows.
dsc04047
Again the way is unclear.
dsc04050
Steam geysers, locally pronounced “geezers”.

dsc04060

dsc04061

dsc04067
High altitude Flamingos. No palm trees here. (Flamenco Andino)
dsc04072
Morning in the hot springs.

dsc04075

dsc04077

dsc04079
Laguna Verde, the green lake.

dsc04090

20161102_085039
Then there was this little fox pup that just about came right up to the car.
dsc04095
Laguna Blanca, the white lake.

dsc04092

 

dsc04094
It was difficult to edit these pictures.
dsc04098
The Bolivian border, on to Chile!

4 thoughts on “OUTBACK BOLIVIA

  1. Looks great. I am glad you made it safe to chile. Amazing landscape. Martin, we meet a the hoste in Sucre. I arrived back home in western australia a few days ago. Very jealous.

    Like

    1. Martin, Yes the southwest circuit in Bolivia was other worldly! We’ve been bouncing back and forth between Argentina and Chile on our way south. We’re on the Island of Chiloe’ now, great oysters and mariscos!! Hope we meet again.
      Jay and Ann

      Like

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out /  Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s