We entered the enormous country of Brazil (larger than the contiguous U.S.) at the mighty Iguacu Falls. Right on the border of Argentina and Brazil the falls which encompass some 275 individual falls are over 3 km wide and 80 meters high. They are wider than Victoria Falls and higher than Niagara. They can be viewed from both Argentina and Brazil but since it was down-pouring when we approached them in Argentina we crossed the border and set out the next day for the Brazilian viewing.

The Trilha das cataratas (waterfall trail) winds some 1200 meters along the Iguacu River with spectacular views one after another. Again we entered the park early in the first wave of tourists so the crowds were reasonable. The trail culminates at the epicenter of the biggest portion of the falls Garganta do Diablo (Throat of the Devil). On the trail viewers are lead out to the center of the river where the tumultuous thunder and power of the falls elicits a visceral experience and a wet one.

Years ago a tour company used to row passengers out to the edge of the falls from the top to let tourists get precariously close to the big drop. One day a group of 9 German tourists were in the boat when the oarsman couldn’t quite keep up against the flow of the river. The boat went over the falls and all 10 died. Needless to say the tours were discontinued from that point on!